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This thing is awesome. It will save you a lot of time. Veteran installers swear by it. It's much better than dinking around with the cheaper clamp-on ratchet style connectors found on less-expensive landscape fixtures.
You just lay your main line (10- or 12-gauge, 2-conductor) wire in one channel, and the wire from your light (18 gauge,) in the other channel, put the cap on, and screw the cap down onto the base. The precision-oriented mini-spikes on the inside of the cap penetrate the wires' insulation just enough to make a solid connection.
- One side of the base allows you to combine 12-2 feed lines with your 18-2 lights; the other side of the base allows you to combine 10-2 feed lines with your 18-2 lights. Be sure to use the correct side for the size of your feed lines (10- or 12-gauge.) The base is clearly marked.
- This is one case where it may make sense to wire with the power on. Ordinarily, we have a fairly iron-clad rule that you don't wire "hot" (i.e., with the power on.) In this case, the lines are low voltage, the likelihood of causing a short is low, and the power supplies have robust overload protection. If you wire with the power on, you can immediately tell when your Quic-Disc has been tightened enough because the light will come on. We find the work goes a lot faster if you can get the immediate feedback that you have made contact.
- On old lines, the insulation will be much stiffer and you may find it helpful to "pre-squeeze" the lid onto the base with a channel-lock pliers, almost like a portable vise. This helps the spikes penetrate the insulation. When the lights come on, stop squeezing, set the pliers down, insert the screw and tighten. On new lines, the insulation is so supple, you can simply tighten the screw until the light comes on, and then maybe another eighth-turn for good measure. Don't over-tighten.
Injection molded polycarbonate with nickel plated brass contacts to provide maximum corrosion protection and improved conductivity. These connectors are more reliable than the others.